Marine electronics and DC power in Glen Cove, for boats with real systems aboard.
Hempstead Harbor and the Glen Cove marinas hold bigger power cruisers than most of Long Island — and bigger boats are less about screens and more about what feeds them. House banks, charging, inverters and monitoring.
NMEA-certified for the electronics, ABYC standards for the wiring, and a deliberate line: we work on DC and stay off your vessel AC panel. Fully insured, 60-day labor warranty.
On this page
What changes at this size
Past 35 feet, the electronics are the easy part.
On a 24-foot center console, the electronics conversation is which sounder. On the boats around Hempstead Harbor and the Glen Cove marinas, the screens are usually the least interesting problem. The interesting problem is everything behind them.
A larger cruiser runs refrigeration, a windlass, pumps, lighting, entertainment and navigation, frequently overnight, sometimes away from shore power. That is a power system, and it either has enough capacity, correct charging and honest monitoring — or it does not, and you find out at anchor at eleven at night.
So a good share of our Glen Cove work is DC systems rather than displays: house banks, charging, inverters, solar and monitoring, wired to ABYC standards with cable gauge and fusing that match the actual load.
The systems behind the screens
Power, charging and knowing where you stand.
House banks sized honestly
Capacity worked out from what you actually consume overnight, not from a rule of thumb — with cable and fusing to match the load rather than the catalogue.
Charging that finishes the job
Shore chargers, alternator charging and solar set up so the bank genuinely reaches full, rather than sitting permanently at 80% and quietly dying early.
Monitoring you can trust
Shunt-based monitors showing amp-hours used, draw and time remaining. Voltage alone under load tells you very little.
Worth it, or not
Lithium: the straight version.
Lithium is genuinely transformative on the right boat. You get far more usable capacity per pound, it accepts charge much faster, and it does not object to being cycled. On a boat that spends nights on the hook, it changes what is possible.
It is also not a drop-in swap, whatever the marketing says. It needs charging sources configured for it, a battery management system, and thought about what happens when the BMS disconnects while the alternator is still spinning. Done casually, it is an expensive way to create new problems.
And if your boat lives on shore power and rarely draws the bank down, we will tell you to keep the lead-acid and spend the money elsewhere. We would rather do that than sell you a conversion you will not benefit from.
Ready to talk? Or keep reading below.
A limit we do not blur
We work on DC. We stay off your AC panel.
This comes up on every larger boat, so it is worth being direct. We install and service DC systems — batteries, charging, inverters on the DC side, solar, monitoring and all the electronics. We do not work inside the vessel's AC distribution panel or on shore power systems.
That is not caution for its own sake. AC work on a vessel is licensed electrician territory, it carries real liability, and doing it without the right licence would be a disservice to you as much as a risk to us. So we scope it out in writing, and where a job needs AC work we tell you before we start and point you at someone properly qualified.
The same honesty applies to autopilot drive units, rigging and finished joinery. Each of those goes to the trade that should be doing it.
What it costs
Rates for bigger jobs.
- $280 first hour, one man — travel up to 30 minutes each way and setup included
- $140/hr after, in 15-minute steps
- $440 / $220 per hour two-man crew — most power system work runs with two
- Multi-day jobs restart the first-hour rate each day; no 4-hour minimum on any of it
- Parts at cost plus markup, quoted before ordering
- Design and CAD at $140/hr, shop and admin at $125/hr — never billed at the field rate
- 60-day labor warranty; equipment carries its manufacturer warranty
ABYC Electrical Standards
Empire Wind NETP Approved Vendor
Fully Insured
$280 First Hour · $140/hr After
No Minimums
60-Day Labor Warranty
You Call, You Get The Installer
Bigger boats
What owners say about systems work.
Rich F. — Viking 62 Sportfish
★★★★★
Viking 62 electronics overhaul — LIME fabricated a complete new helm panel and integrated every system from scratch. These guys handle big boats and they know what they're doing. NMEA certified, ABYC wiring throughout. Best money I've spent on this boat.
Mike R. — Grady-White 306
★★★★★
Had LIME install Starlink Standard on my Grady-White 306 with a custom stainless arch mount. They wired it direct to 12V so it runs off the batteries — no inverter, no shore power needed. The whole job was clean and professional. Signal is rock solid from the dock to 80 miles out.
Steve K. — Pursuit 325 DC
★★★★★
Full helm rebuild — new StarBoard panel, dual Garmin 9" displays, radar, AIS, and autopilot. Cleanest installation I've ever seen on a boat. LIME is in a different league.
Glen Cove questions
Power questions we get on this harbour.
Is lithium actually worth it on a boat this size?Sometimes. Lithium gives you far more usable capacity for the weight and it charges much faster, which matters if you spend nights at anchor. It also needs a charging system that suits it and proper battery management — you cannot simply swap the boxes and hope. If your boat sits on shore power most of the time and you rarely run the house bank down, we will tell you honestly that lead-acid is still fine.
Sometimes. Lithium gives you far more usable capacity for the weight and it charges much faster, which matters if you spend nights at anchor. It also needs a charging system that suits it and proper battery management — you cannot simply swap the boxes and hope. If your boat sits on shore power most of the time and you rarely run the house bank down, we will tell you honestly that lead-acid is still fine.
Can you install an inverter so we can run appliances at anchor?
Yes, on the DC side. We size the inverter to your house bank, fit it with the right cable gauge and fusing, and wire the DC feed properly. Where an installation would require work inside the vessel AC distribution panel, that part goes to a licensed electrician — we do not touch AC panels and we say so before the job starts, not halfway through.
Our batteries keep dying over the winter. Is that the batteries?
It is more often a parasitic draw or a charger that is not doing what people assume. Bilge pumps, alarms, stereo memory and electronics on standby all take current, and a battery left at partial charge through a cold winter degrades quickly. We measure the actual draw rather than guessing, and fit monitoring so you can see it instead of finding out in April.
What does battery monitoring actually give me?
A truthful state of charge instead of a voltage reading, which is nearly useless under load. A proper shunt-based monitor tells you amp-hours consumed, current draw and time remaining. On a boat with a big house bank it is the difference between managing your power and discovering a problem.
Do you fit solar on larger boats?
Yes, including walkable semi-rigid panels where deck space is the constraint. Solar on a boat of this size will rarely run everything, but it very effectively keeps a house bank topped up between weekends, which is often what people actually want. We size it against your real consumption rather than the panel's sticker rating.
Stop guessing what the bank is doing.
Tell us the boat and how you use it overnight. We will tell you whether you need capacity, charging, or just honest monitoring.